Nike日前於台北東區替全新概念展場 TPE6453舉行盛大開幕活動，除了當晚嘉賓如雲之外，配合本次的主題 - "Inovation to Inovation" Cortez歷史展覽，特別邀請「BLUERIBBONS」這本探討NIKE 70年代設計書籍的作者芥川貴之志來訪，本書由設計類書籍中赫赫有名的+81出版社所監製，介紹許多Nike不為人知的背景，1972年出生的芥川先生是如何與Vintage老鞋結緣，又對台北的街頭有什麼印象？以下是KENLU.net的NIKE TPE6453訪問專題。
from 1970s to 21th century
Nike TPE6453 - 芥川貴之志專訪
達人印象
Nike日前於台北東區替全新概念展場 TPE6453 舉行盛大開幕活動，除了當晚嘉賓如雲之外，配合本次的主題 - "Inovation to Inovation" Cortez歷史展覽，特別邀請「BLUERIBBONS」這本探討NIKE 70年代設計書籍的作者芥川貴之志來訪，本書由設計類書籍中赫赫有名的+81出版社所監製，介紹許多Nike不為人知的背景，1972年出生的芥川先生是如何與Vintage老鞋結緣，又對台北的街頭有什麼印象？以下是KENLU.net的NIKE TPE6453訪問專題。 Nike recently have their first concept gallery, TPE6453 , grand opened in Taipei East District, one of the hippest areas in far east. The author of "BLUERIBBONS", Takatoshi Akutagawa ia invited for the openning exhibition, "Innovation to Innovation" the Cortez History. KENLU.net had the opportunity to sit down with Mr.Taka and share ideas about Nike sneakers.
KENLU : 對台北的NIKE TPE6453這個概念中心有什麼看法？
TAKA : 非常特別，日本也沒有這樣子的場所，即使是如AD21也只是以店舖的形式存在過，這種專注於品牌概念展覽的地方可以說從來沒有過，台北的Nike TPE6453讓人印象深刻。
K : 之前有沒有來過台灣？對台灣的印象是什麼？
T : 在Nike的Vintage款式（這邊是指1970年代左右生產的款式）中，有一部份是在台灣一個叫做旭台的公司所生產，這間公司是日本普利司通所成立的製鞋工廠，在球鞋上的這一層關連是我最早認識到的台灣，除了球鞋之外，我是個對歷史相當有興趣的人，尤其是中國、台灣、日本這三地之間有相當多重要的歷史事件發生，所以不管是之前去北京或是這次台北的參訪，我在行前已經藉由歷史構築出一個印象，這次來也感受到台灣人們的友善態度。
K : 對球鞋產地有沒有什麼特別的偏好？
T : 我最喜歡的是七十年代的款式，台灣大概是八十年代開始生產球鞋，以那個年代的製品來說，美國所生產的鞋子常常會受潮吸水而壞掉，相對於此，其他地方如台灣、日本、韓國所製做的鞋子就沒有這個問題。
T : Nike在七十年代在美國的稅制上面吃了一個大虧（即將面臨一筆一百五十億日圓的支出），財務甚至可能因此而短缺甚至倒閉，這可以說是Nike發展史上一個也是最大的危機，為了要完整的解決這個問題，Nike開始了現在這個在不同國家生產鞋款的策略。
K : 原來如此，這些可是Internet都找不到的資料。
T : 十八歲的時候，我就開始會去書店裡看這些相關的資料，這過程中也認識了在Nike內部工作的朋友，一些資料交相比對之後，一個公司策略的成形過程也慢慢浮現出來。一些很舊的Runner's World也帶給我不少寶貴的資訊，我常會上網買書回來看。
K : Nike究竟具有什麼特色讓人如此著迷？
T : 我想，設計、技術跟造型上Nike都有他特別的地方，但真正吸引我的是他的故事，每一雙鞋子都有不同的故事，這些故事代表著製鞋者的想法與感受，而Nike把這些故事說得非常的好，也因此讓我得以體會到作者的心態，也因此才有辦法撰寫「BLUERIBBONS」這本書籍。
K : 開始收藏球鞋的背景以及原因是什麼？
T : 在十八歲的時候，我升上了大學，那時候才開始能夠有穿著便服的生活，每天既然可以穿不一樣的衣服，那是不是可以每天穿著不一樣的球鞋，久而久之，我就開始有想要替這些鞋子出版的念頭，一開始我只會買自己喜歡跟會穿的鞋子，但是為了這個出版球鞋圖鑒年曆的計畫，我開始蒐集許多這個年代的款式。
K : 有沒有特別喜歡的款式？
T : LD1000 他的造型獨到，有種很銳利的設計感。
K : 芥元先生你接觸過這麼多的鞋款，在Vintage與近年的新產品之間存在最大的差異是什麼？
T : 最不同的就是技術，隨著時間的演進，手工的製程都演變成機械化的流程，但是Vintage品縫線的樣式、柔軟度有種舊舊的、古老的味道；新製品就不會有這種感覺，以我今天所穿著的Cortez Flymotion來說，就是非常的輕，自然的著地感也非常的不同，而這也是Vintage作品所沒有的。
K : 「Fusion、Hybrid」這種概念是好是壞仍是具爭議的話題，身為一個收藏家的你有什麼感受？
T : 我覺得這個沒有什麼不好的，以DJ來說，也會有將原作加入新段子的混音手法，你手中的相機雖然有著較新的技術，但其中也是不停的重複著某些舊有的元素，把舊的東西拿出來，升級他或是改變他並不是一個不好的事情。
K : 這麼多年下來，許多事情都在改變，從芥川先生你書中見到以前有被稱為「SMU」的選手特製款式，讓我想到現在被稱為「Player Edition」的球鞋，但漸漸的，現在居然一般大眾也可以在限定商店中也買到這樣的款式。
T : 其實我就覺得還好，不過我從以前一直覺得款式實在是太多了。不過這也跟訊息的掌握有關，我雖然有在收藏鞋子，但是還是會在行情好的時候出售部份，等待下次復刻或是能夠便宜入手的機會。
T : 「BLUERIBBONS」這本書中所談得多是70年代的款式，那個年代的鞋子其實是很不容易壞掉的，進入了80年代之後，由於PU材質的採用，鞋子開始變得容易壞掉，以這個角度來想，有復刻也是件好事。
K : 台灣的流行文化深受藤原浩為首的日本裏原宿影響，現在日本街頭文化中，球鞋扮演著什麼樣的角色？
T : 藤原先生給日本的影響也是很大的，其實每個國家都一樣，一個指標性的人物出現後，都會出現一股跟隨的情況出現，不過現在是越來越多元化了，年輕一代也面對了更多不同的選擇。
K : 十分感謝芥川先生接受我們的專訪，最後有沒有什麼話想對KENLU.net的朋友們說的？
T : Hello KENLU.net! 很高興我有機會來台北，NIKE TPE6453是一個獨特的據點，請務必到現場參觀，這個月底我將在東京涉谷109二館開設屬於自己的鞋店，這間店鋪就是鎖定不同於藤原世代的族群，名稱預定是Footcorner，希望大家有機會能夠前來逛逛。
KENLU : What's your first impression about Nike TPE6453 Energy Center?
TAKA : Unique. I've never been a place like this. Concepts shops like AD21 in tokyo are exist for a period in the form of store. A gallery for brand concept conveying like TPE6453 is very special.
K : Have you ever been to Taipei? Any idea what Taiwan looks like before the trip?
T : Among the 70s' vintage sneakers of Nike, a company named "shi-tai" plays an important role of manufacture. The factory is a brench of Bridgestone. That's what I learned about Taiwan at first. Besides the sneakers, I'm interested in studying history. Taiwan, Japan and China are tied together in numerous history events. I studied a lot, and built an image before I visit the place.
K : Nike has many different places of production. Do you have a favor about the place of manufaturing?
T : A major part of my favorite are the 70s sneakers. Taiwan started to produce Nike around the 80. Evalue based on the production in that period, I would say kicks from US factory are more tend to be broken by the cause of the damp. Shoes from Taiwan, Japan and other country don't have such problems.
T : In the age of 80s, Nike faced a hefty issue about tax from US government. They're facing a probelm in the scale of losing billions. That's one of the major cause force Nike moves their production to differnt country.
K : That sounds like some information we won't be able to google it. May I ask the way you study about sneakers?
T : I start my interest about sneakers when I'm 18. I read a lot, and get lot of information from the magazine, Runner's World. With data I read and met nice people from Nike, a lot of ideas behnd decision starts to appear before my eyes.
K : Have you ever think about why Nike has so many fans and collectors love it?
T : Design, technology and style wise, Nike is advance and willing to challenge. But what really gets my attention is the story behind its own product. Each shoes has its own story to tell. Nike did it very good. Reveals the value, the process from very beginning to final design as its own tale. This helps people like me to interpret the design deeper and also makes the publication of +81 "BLUERIBBONS" become possible.
K : What makes you start to collect?
T : I became a college student when I'm 18. That's when I can leave life in uniform. The thought just came to me that, "if I can have different wear to school everyday, why can't wear different shoes everyday?". Thus, I start my life with sneakers. After a long time, I start to collect not only for wear, but for the publication. The idea about "BLUERIBBONS" publication forced me to collect all kind of styles in that period, and not styles only for me to wear.
K : Do you have a favorite?
T : LD1000, it gots a unique shape, and very sharp design.
K : After so many years, what's the major difference between vintage and product in recent days?
T : Technology. With time goes by, technology about process keeps evolving. Handmade touch from vintage sneakers is replaced by mechanical procedures. The style, the anitque taste is not replicable. In other way, new products has much better technology support. For example, the Cortez Flymotion is amazing light, support and flexible in the same time.
K : "Fusion" or "Hybrid" is still left arguable, what's your notion?
T : It didn't cause me any bother. It's like remix from DJs. The camera you carrying is also developed from unceasingly "retro" or "replication". To upgrade or change a old design is normal.
K : What about "Retro"?
T : Most of the shoes in "BLUERIBBONS" belongs to 70s, which are easier to keep. After 80s, PU are adopted and shoes become out of use in years. In this point of view, retro is a good thing for people like certain styles.
K : I read from "BLUERIBBONS" the term "SMU" which is like "Player Editions" nowadays. It's unimaginable that these styles become available in shops.
T : I'm always of the opinion that there're way too many styles. It's about the information if you want to collect. I sell and buy shoes in reasonable price.
K : Urahana (headed by Hiroishi Fujiwara) hosts huge influence toward street fashion in Taiwan. What's the status of Japan street culture?
T : Hiroishi is an important influencer to Japan street culture. He lead the culture for years. However, generation in 20 years old has way more options.
K : Thank you so much for your time. Any word to KENLU.net friends?
T : Hello KENLU.net, TPE6453 is an unique place to visit. I will have my sneakers shop, Footcorner grand open in Shibuya 109-2 in the end of month. Please visit us.
NIKE TPE 6453
address
台北市敦化南路一段187巷36號
No. 36, Lane 187, Sec.1, Dunhua S.Rd., Taipei City, Taiwan
可由台北捷運忠孝敦化二號出口前往 步行約兩分鐘距離
You can take MRT to Zhongxiao Dunhua Station and take exit 2. TPE 6453 is just few minutes away(by walk)
2009-04-16, 06:37 PM
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